Dose the the back rack slide front and back or is or just to protect the window in the cab?
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I don't think it slides, but I haven't tried. There's a folding tonneau cover on the bed, and if the rack slid back it would probably be in the way of opening the tonneau cover.
Wasn’t sure where to put this but it seemed appropriate, so if I’m stepping on toes—sorry.
I drive a 2010 ICE Highlander. The Terra will replace this vehicle.
From September 8th to today (22 days), here is my driving cost.
Total mileage=507
Total gasoline used=29.62 gallons; making that a 17.1mpg average.
Total cost of gas=$80.86
Average cost/gallon = $2.72-9
If I assume 2miles/kw on a Scout Terra, that would be 253.5kw used. (507/2)
253.5kw x $0.1111/kw home charging (the middle tier) = $28.16. A saving of $52.70 for 3 weeks of driving.
Extrapolating to 52 weeks, this would be a cost saving of $913.47/year.
Do i have this math right?
This really blows my mind!
I drive a 2010 ICE Highlander. The Terra will replace this vehicle.
From September 8th to today (22 days), here is my driving cost.
Total mileage=507
Total gasoline used=29.62 gallons; making that a 17.1mpg average.
Total cost of gas=$80.86
Average cost/gallon = $2.72-9
If I assume 2miles/kw on a Scout Terra, that would be 253.5kw used. (507/2)
253.5kw x $0.1111/kw home charging (the middle tier) = $28.16. A saving of $52.70 for 3 weeks of driving.
Extrapolating to 52 weeks, this would be a cost saving of $913.47/year.
Do i have this math right?
This really blows my mind!
I’m sure @SpaceEVDriver will tell us. And if that’s correct wow. I do a lot of around town driving and I average more like 13 or 14 mph in my Wrangler. That’s a big savings.
That math is correct. And you have incredibly cheap gas! While considering an electric truck, I calculated, before we installed solar, that gas would have to go below $0.60/gallon before the Tacoma would cost less in daily driving than the Lightning.
I find it useful to think in dollars per mile.
Highlander:
Average cost per mile: $80.86 / 507 miles = $0.16/mile
Average cost per 100 miles: $15.95/100 miles
Traveler:
Average cost per mile: $28.16 / 507 = $0.056/mile
Average cost per 100 miles: $5.55/100 miles
Don’t forget to account for time saved. You save hours of time not going to a gas station if you only drive locally, and assuming you can charge at home. And even if you do road trip, you still save a lot of time. I don’t know about you, but I value my non-working time at a much higher rate than my job hourly pay. I like spending time doing the things I enjoy and if it costs me several hours a year to fuel the vehicle, that’s worth several thousand dollars a year.
Don’t forget to account for maintenance savings. I’ve spent almost nothing on maintenance in the >52 months of owning EVs and I was spending quite a lot on a Tacoma and Alltrack before we went all-electric. And the time spent, even if it’s just organizing an appointment with the shop and bringing the vehicle in, that was hours of my life wasted on maintenance.
Yeah.
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I recently ran an estimated total cost of ownership model for some friends who were debating a $55k Subaru Outback or a $116k Rivian R1S.
Based on their location, driving habits, cost of energy (gas or electricity), etc., the R1S has a greater than 66% probability it will pay for itself within 5-7 years.
Based on their location, driving habits, cost of energy (gas or electricity), etc., the R1S has a greater than 66% probability it will pay for itself within 5-7 years.
I finally have my husband onboard with getting the BEV. He’s been adamant that we need a Harvester. I keep telling him all the info I’m learning from you guys and no maintenance, etc, etc. Last week he told me it’s my car, my decision and if I want the BEV go for it.
.
Sounds good to me. I’ve figured even on my Accord hybrid I should be able to cut my current annual cost in half. And I’m already saving hundreds a year from going from my Acura TLX type S
Almost 11 months into my BEV driving, and that feels about right - and of course @SpaceEVDriver confirmed...
I'm lucky because my use case is almost perfect for an EV: 10-12 miles per day commuting, a couple hundred miles on weekends doing fun stuff, and already had solar panels on the house. This is not the case for everybody, so I think it's good that Scout has the Harvester option, but its still BEV for me.
Incidentally, my household electricity cost didn't change when we added the car, although you never really know - Excel, is very good at hiding actual use and costs - somehow the amount I produce is always exactly as much as I use, like magic, but I don't pay for electricity, just the various fees to be part of the grid.
Did a 180 mile round trip in the mountains looking at leaves this weekend, started at 99% battery, got home with 50% and just plugged it back in = free road trip! When I do go to gas stations with my ICE vehicle now, the whole experience just kind of makes me mad.
Does anyone have thoughts on my 2 miles/KW assumption for the Terra?
I don't think Scout has released hard numbers yet but from what I've read, the pack will be 120-130kWh and range will be 350 miles. Assuming those pack sizes are usable (big assumption), that would put consumption at .342kWh/mile to .371kWh/mile.
I believe that’s accurate to the level possible at this time.
When in low-speed (<40 mph) traffic that’s relatively flat, you could probably bump that up to >3 miles/kWh. I get closer to 4 in the Lightning for around-town driving, and in some specialized contexts, I can get >8 miles/kWh round trip for 40+ miles.
When in high-speed (70+ mph) highway driving, they’ll probably get closer to 1.8 miles/kWh. I get an average of about 2.3 to 2.5 miles/kWh, but I also see a lot of Lightning drivers get less than I, so I don’t know all the reasons I get higher efficiency than many. I have ideas, but it’s not important at the moment.
The average will be somewhere around 2 miles/kWh. All the trucks are getting something like that. A heavier truck will perform worse in stop-and-go traffic and about the same in freeway driving.
N.B.:
0.342 kWh/mile = 2.92 miles/kWh
0.371 kWh/mile = 2.69 miles/kWh
IMPORTANT NOTE:
One should note that range divided by battery capacity is not the entire story when doing the dollar-cost per mile math.
You also have to include efficiency of transfering energy from the grid to your battery. That’s about 85-95% efficient. If you take my 2.5 miles/kWh freeway driving and multiply it by 85%, you get about 2.13 miles/kWh, which is what the EPA estimates for total efficiency. The EPA numbers for mpge for the electric trucks and SUVS give you a better understanding of total efficiency. Will Scout achieve Rivian-levels of total efficiency? I think they can. I think they can even exceed those and may achieve what @strider estimated. But it will require some clever engineering across the board, from better surface area, better coefficient of drag, better weight, better electrical efficiencies. We’ll see.
Lightning Extended Range:
48 kWh / 100 miles = 2.1 miles/kWh
R1S (Max Pack, Dual motors):
40 kWh / 100 miles = 2.5 miles/kWh
R1T (Max Pack, Dual motors):
39 kWh / 100 miles = 2.56 miles/kWh
Chevrolet Silverado EV (Extended Range):
50 kWh / 100 miles = 2.0 miles/kWh
Kia EV9 (Long Range, AWD):
41 kWh/100 miles = 2.44 miles/kWh
We all need to send you a muffin basket or something for always answering our questions. Or Scout merch or something.
Nah. Just let me geek out and I’m good.We all need to send you a muffin basket or something for always answering our questions. Or Scout merch or something.
That’s encouraging. The around town stuff is mostly what I do. Do you think the rolling stock (tires, wheels) on your Lightening have much effect on that?
Yes.
At lower speeds, rolling resistance and angular momentum of the wheels/tires have a greater impact on efficiency. This is for multiple reasons: A) because the tires have time to flex more so internal friction is higher and more energy is expended flexing the tires; B) Because the road surface has more time to deflect so you’re constantly climbing a hill of a few tenths of a mm. That doesn’t sound like much, but over tens, hundreds, thousands of miles it adds up; C) Because you’re in stop-and-go and that angular inertia/momentum of the wheel set has to be spun up and slowed down repeatedly; D) Overall vehicle weight matters more in stop-and-go because you repeatedly change the vehicle’s velocity.
You’ll still get better efficiency at lower speeds because air resistance is just such a big deal, but if you throw tall, heavy, flexible tires on, you’ll increase rolling resistance and reduce efficiency around town (and on the highway).
Given that some of us will be using our Scouts as PP’s, I wonder at the wisdom of all-terrain tires. Wouldn’t some sort of all-season tire be a wiser choice?
I would imagine its going to be an option. Wranglers come with all season tires on some models. Mine will be a pavement princess but I still want an off-road tire. I’ve been saying 35s but I went to the Jeep dealer the other day and the difference between a 33 and 35s isn’t that noticeable. Plus it’s just easier to get into with 33s and I don’t want a step. I want rock sliders even tho I won’t be sliding on rocks. It just looks more finished on the side.
I just realized I may have read your question wrong. Do you mean Scout offering them or more reasonable choice us as buyers choosing them?
IMO, Yes. But.
I haven't found a great AS in the size I want and load range required. For the Lightning, 116S is the lowest load index I would put on the truck. There aren't a lot of great options outside of ATs. And as you go to a higher load index, the tires get a lot heavier. I would like an LT Touring kind of tire, but they can be 25% heavier, which adds a lot of rotational inertia.
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