I have a set of shocks that could fix that for you.... adjustable rebound helps a lot with the big meats.
But you're right, the weight is something we dont always consider when moving up in size.
This video convinced me to give Pizza Cutters a shot
The Garage (What did you work on today?)
- Thread starter Chavannigans
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But you're right, the weight is something we dont always consider when moving up in size.
This video convinced me to give Pizza Cutters a shot
YES! I have thought this and never seen anyone test for it. Think about it, the longer contact patch introduces a longer lever. Think Archimedes and his lever to move the earth.
I spent the last 2 days in my garage working on my camper replacing the wheel bearings, then fixing a broken faucet.
We were supposed to leave on Monday for our Route 66 trip, but I was working at an event all weekend for work and didn't have time to check over the camper until Monday. When I pulled the wheels and hubs off, the bearings didn't look good and I didn't want to chance it so I spent the day changing them. So, we were going to leave Tuesday, but we discovered the kitchen faucet was broken and leaking, so we lost another day while I drove to the closest RV store in CT to get a new faucet, then install it, then packing the rest of the day.
We finally left today, but not till later in the afternoon. Stopped at the Cat scales after crossing the border into NY, and everything looks good. Well within limits, and the Lightning tows the camper like a dream. Nice and stable and smooth. Tonight we are at a campground in central NY. We arrived with about 25% battery SOC, and luckily the campground had a pull-through site with both 30A for the camper, and 50A where I plugged in a charger I brought with me and I'm getting free charging overnight.
We just beat an approaching thunderstorm when we set up at the campground. I'll try to send a few pictures tomorrow.
We were supposed to leave on Monday for our Route 66 trip, but I was working at an event all weekend for work and didn't have time to check over the camper until Monday. When I pulled the wheels and hubs off, the bearings didn't look good and I didn't want to chance it so I spent the day changing them. So, we were going to leave Tuesday, but we discovered the kitchen faucet was broken and leaking, so we lost another day while I drove to the closest RV store in CT to get a new faucet, then install it, then packing the rest of the day.
We finally left today, but not till later in the afternoon. Stopped at the Cat scales after crossing the border into NY, and everything looks good. Well within limits, and the Lightning tows the camper like a dream. Nice and stable and smooth. Tonight we are at a campground in central NY. We arrived with about 25% battery SOC, and luckily the campground had a pull-through site with both 30A for the camper, and 50A where I plugged in a charger I brought with me and I'm getting free charging overnight.
We just beat an approaching thunderstorm when we set up at the campground. I'll try to send a few pictures tomorrow.
Congrats on working through it all and getting on the road safely!
Have fun on your trip! Just curious, what camper do you have? I’ve been looking into them myself lately… and the choices are dizzying.
Thanks.
We have a Gulf Stream Amerilite 248BH. For our family (2 adults and 3 kids) the layout works because it has bunks, a queen bed and the dinette converts to a bed, so it sleeps 5. And, it's light enough for the truck to pull it easily and not be over capacity.
Got lucky this weekend. Woke up before the family Saturday morning, so went out to the garage to piddle around. Popped the hood on the daily driver to do a quick inspection and found the serpentine belt was half gone.
Odd since it only had 5k miles on it. Ran to the store, picked up another one and had it on in a few minutes. Start the car, and the belt rides up the side of the harmonic balancer pulley immediately, so I shut her back down again. Knowing the belt was installed properly, and fully in the grooves of each pulley, I start inspecting. Didn't take long to see that the whole harmonic balancer/crank pulley had separated into two pieces, as evident by the large dirty/rusty lip in the picture below.
Put the car in sixth gear and double-checked that the parking brake was set. Grabbed the breaker bar and a long extension and removed the bolt. Grabbed a crank pulley removal tool next and pulled the whole balancer/pulley off. So far, so good. With that removed, I could see the front main seal was seeping a bit of oil. Ugh. Run to the dealership for a new seal. Used one of those free paint can opener tools from the paint store to pop the old seal out. Lubed the new one up with fresh oil and popped in into place. Now, the car's sitting there waiting on a new balancer and ARP crank bolt that should be arriving today. Aside from the usual consumables, this is the first work this car has needed at 99k miles, aside from an idler pulley that was replaced when the belts were done. For $300 in parts and a few hours of my time, I can't complain since the car is easy to work on. Waiting on parts, and looking like she needs a good bath under the hood:
Odd since it only had 5k miles on it. Ran to the store, picked up another one and had it on in a few minutes. Start the car, and the belt rides up the side of the harmonic balancer pulley immediately, so I shut her back down again. Knowing the belt was installed properly, and fully in the grooves of each pulley, I start inspecting. Didn't take long to see that the whole harmonic balancer/crank pulley had separated into two pieces, as evident by the large dirty/rusty lip in the picture below.
Put the car in sixth gear and double-checked that the parking brake was set. Grabbed the breaker bar and a long extension and removed the bolt. Grabbed a crank pulley removal tool next and pulled the whole balancer/pulley off. So far, so good. With that removed, I could see the front main seal was seeping a bit of oil. Ugh. Run to the dealership for a new seal. Used one of those free paint can opener tools from the paint store to pop the old seal out. Lubed the new one up with fresh oil and popped in into place. Now, the car's sitting there waiting on a new balancer and ARP crank bolt that should be arriving today. Aside from the usual consumables, this is the first work this car has needed at 99k miles, aside from an idler pulley that was replaced when the belts were done. For $300 in parts and a few hours of my time, I can't complain since the car is easy to work on. Waiting on parts, and looking like she needs a good bath under the hood:
Woof. Glad it's going smoothly.
I for one am so freaking completely done with dealing with ICEs. My 2007 diesel WK (Grand Cherokee) hit 150,000 miles recently. I do oil every 12,500 and all fluids every 75,000 so it was time for the whole shebang. This time my son was old enough to help/learn (he will be getting a BEV when he turns 16 next year but he's learning to drive on the WK and he should know how things work). So we spent the day doing both diffs, transfer case, transmission, and engine. We were filthy by the end of it.
Of course, after all that, the transmission has started randomly going into limp mode. Pulled the codes and it's complaining about the input shaft speed sensor. Apparently it's a common failure on these NAG1 transmissions. So we get to drop the transmission pan AGAIN! Can I tell you how much I'm looking forward to getting filthy again? Oh and it's now July in Oklahoma so it's in the high 90s. Whee!
I for one am so freaking completely done with dealing with ICEs. My 2007 diesel WK (Grand Cherokee) hit 150,000 miles recently. I do oil every 12,500 and all fluids every 75,000 so it was time for the whole shebang. This time my son was old enough to help/learn (he will be getting a BEV when he turns 16 next year but he's learning to drive on the WK and he should know how things work). So we spent the day doing both diffs, transfer case, transmission, and engine. We were filthy by the end of it.
Of course, after all that, the transmission has started randomly going into limp mode. Pulled the codes and it's complaining about the input shaft speed sensor. Apparently it's a common failure on these NAG1 transmissions. So we get to drop the transmission pan AGAIN! Can I tell you how much I'm looking forward to getting filthy again? Oh and it's now July in Oklahoma so it's in the high 90s. Whee!
Yeah, it was 100 in NC while I was working on the car, but thankfully lower-than-normal humidity, so I only lost a few pounds to sweat. The basement workshop is air conditioned, but the main garage isn't...In Oklahoma? Both!
I definitely don't miss working on Jeeps, though I did enjoy the V8 swaps we used to do in the shop I worked in.
Update: Spent 15 minutes last night and installed the harmonic balancer, belts and intake. Didn't have time to fire her up and verify we're good, so that'll be this evening. Not too concerned though since it's a simple job. I'm getting too old to be tightening bolts to 235lb-ft, but I've got more weight nowadays to throw at it, so there's that...
Since updating the BMS on my house back up batteries in December, I’ve had periodic power interruption events. The error code always indicates an electrical fault like a power surge or some such. It shuts off and restarts (~2 seconds) to protect the system. This morning I had two events back to back, with a third one seven minutes later. Very frustrating!
After checking the system over for connections and excess heat (none) I received an alert that there was a BMS update available, which I installed. I’m now discharging the system to 0%-SOC to reset the BMS.
GLARGH!
After checking the system over for connections and excess heat (none) I received an alert that there was a BMS update available, which I installed. I’m now discharging the system to 0%-SOC to reset the BMS.
GLARGH!
That sucks. This is why I'm hesitant to move to batteries as I know my wife would NOT be happy with little nuisance events.
Hopefully the update fixes it. What kind of inverter and BMS are you running?
Bluetti AC500 w/4 B300s batteries. The inverter is discontinued and some of the YouTube comments indicate this unit is prone to this. We’ll see.
I've been low key considering a home backup system for a few years now.
I keep going back and forth between something small/portable that would work for camping as well (with a TT-30 plug, that I can plug into my homes manual transfer switch), or something larger that is fixed in place more permanent (either DIY with a server rack battery/wall mount battery and some sort of AIO inverter, or something prebuilt like an Anker Solix E10 or a Fox energy solutions system).
But the cost is high enough, and my electrical knowledge limited enough, that I've... continued to do nothing about this, for now.
Currently I plug my Ioniq 9 to the homes manual transfer switch via the V2L adapter (120v x 15 amps only), which is at least enough for the fridge/freezer, internet, and lights.
I'm waiting to see what Scout has for V2L or V2H capabilities before making any decisions, so hopefully they can announce some basics before long. I'd much rather use the Scout's battery/Harvester during emergencies than spending money on a possibly redundant backup. Either way, we use too much power to try to use batteries for the whole house, so I'd just feed the current critical loads panel if possible and leave the other 200A panels alone.
Yeah, this is exactly what I've been waiting on/thinking about.
A critical loads panel with effectively what would amount to a large UPS would mean that if the power went out while we were gone, the fridge/freezer stuff would stay good automagically. Plus some things like main area lights would stay on after the outage, so the kids wouldn't freak out/etc.
And then I could power the whole house later with the Scout if needed, just plugging it in manually. But the battery would mean I wouldn't have to do it immediately.
The V2L adapter works, but the peak output is so low (there is absolutely zero surge capacity, and only 15amps x 120v), that its tripped more than once just sitting with the fridge/freezer, internet, and TV powered. I believe both compressors for the fridge and freezers kicked on at the same time, and tripped it.
So I've been looking at things like a Anker Solix C2000, or maybe a Bluetti Elite 300, as something that could do more surge, but still be portable/useful for camping/etc in the future if needed. And the Ioniq could power that thing/keep that battery topped off.
Just haven't decided what to do yet. Or even if I'm going to do it (if only these options were free...).
In my ideal world, I'd love to see a 240v, 30A V2L plug on the Scout. That's about what my current generator is and that covers enough of the basics, though no heat or AC.
I’ve been doing solar and battery “backup” for about 40 years. It started on our entirely off-grid ranch with 12V Pb-A car batteries running a couple of lights, some fans, a scavenged car radio, and a 12V TV.
Currently we have 14 kW of solar and 64 kWh of generic in-home battery, 24 kWh of battery I need to re-connect (but am waiting to get another 5 kW of solar set up so I can have it as a secondary backup on the “generator” port), 15 kWh of battery in our trailer (which can be connected to the house if necessary), and the 212 kWh of the truck’s battery.
For people without a system, I generally recommend battery backup over solar if the budget doesn’t allow both. I don’t recommend standalone power stations unless there’s no other option, the energy need is very small (5 kWh or less), or there are specific goals in mind that the standalone power station helps address. Power stations are very expensive compared with a battery+inverter setup, and they’re not as “plug-and-play” as they pretend to be. A good inverter will allow grid peak shaving to reduce costs, will do automatic, unnoticed power switchover, and have a generator input, which means a decent 240V 30A output from an EV can provide silent power backup. The biggest issue I’ve run into is that most certified, qualified electricians have a few very specific battery companies they will work with. If you can’t DIY, you want to find someone who isn’t locked into particular vendors.
If you can DIY or if your electrician is willing to work with generic components, the cost for 15kWh of generic LFP (which are the same cells in almost all expensive power stations or branded battery boxes) is about $1500. A high-quality inverter is not cheap, but you can get a good 6kW for about $2k. That can cover a critical loads, including AC/heat pump.
Currently we have 14 kW of solar and 64 kWh of generic in-home battery, 24 kWh of battery I need to re-connect (but am waiting to get another 5 kW of solar set up so I can have it as a secondary backup on the “generator” port), 15 kWh of battery in our trailer (which can be connected to the house if necessary), and the 212 kWh of the truck’s battery.
For people without a system, I generally recommend battery backup over solar if the budget doesn’t allow both. I don’t recommend standalone power stations unless there’s no other option, the energy need is very small (5 kWh or less), or there are specific goals in mind that the standalone power station helps address. Power stations are very expensive compared with a battery+inverter setup, and they’re not as “plug-and-play” as they pretend to be. A good inverter will allow grid peak shaving to reduce costs, will do automatic, unnoticed power switchover, and have a generator input, which means a decent 240V 30A output from an EV can provide silent power backup. The biggest issue I’ve run into is that most certified, qualified electricians have a few very specific battery companies they will work with. If you can’t DIY, you want to find someone who isn’t locked into particular vendors.
If you can DIY or if your electrician is willing to work with generic components, the cost for 15kWh of generic LFP (which are the same cells in almost all expensive power stations or branded battery boxes) is about $1500. A high-quality inverter is not cheap, but you can get a good 6kW for about $2k. That can cover a critical loads, including AC/heat pump.
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