Northern Climate FAQ

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CanadianMalts

Member
Nov 29, 2025
8
22
Hello friends, long time lurker but now that my account got approved, I can post what's been most on my mind since placing my reservation. I searched for existing cold weather/northern climate data and there isn't much, so I figured I would start a thread to compile it for folks in a similar situation to me. In case you haven't already guessed, I am Canadian so I will be using the Celsius scale but I'll convert to Fahrenheit for ease of reading.

In the first post, let's define what cold is. As an Edmontonian, I get a chuckle out of truck review channels talking about cold weather testing and see them driving around 0 °C (32 °F) like it's a big deal. That's grilling weather in January for us here in Alberta. Here's some ranges for context without wind chill factors.

a) 0 °C (32 °F) to -10 °C (14 °F): I consider this to be a non-issue but for many others, this could constitute extreme lows in your area. Many areas across North America should frequently hit these temperatures so I'm confident the vehicles will be engineered to operate well enough here.

b) -10 °C (14 °F) to -20 °C (-4 °F): This is nuisance winter weather, and the bulk of our winter averages through the core winter months. It's where things can sometimes stop working correctly. ICE batteries should probably be put on a trickle charger if not started for extended periods of time. Engines should be warmed up prior to driving. Typically don't have issues starting without a block heater plugged in unless the battery is already weak. If you live in an area where you don't know what a block heater is, consider yourself blessed.

c) -20 °C (-4 °F) to -30 °C (-22 °F): Moderate cold snap daytime highs, common nighttime lows. Not uncommon to get days to weeks of this range. In 2019, we went through 26 days where the daytime high never cracked -20 °C (-4 °F), but that type of weather pattern is rare. Things continue to stop working. Winter rated washer fluid will crystalize on windshields if not pre-heated sufficiently. In my Subaru WRX, I notice my transmission fluid is stiff and my clutch is noticeably harder to depress until warmed up. Many ICE vehicles will not start if stored outside for multiple days without a plugged in block heater.

d) -30 °C (-22 °F) to -40 °C (-40 °F): Severe cold snap. We typically get one or two stretches of this in a year. Depending on how close your commute is, your car might not be warm when you get to work (people tape cardboard over their grills to help this). If your ICE isn't plugged in or have a huge cold crank amp battery, probably not starting. There's ice (not ICE, but water ice) on the INSIDE of windows and doorknobs in our homes. Vehicles break, period. You know not to roll down your window fully because it might freeze that way and not roll up. Depending on how used you are to it, it may hurt to breathe.

e) Colder than -40 °C (-40 °F): Extreme cold snap. Rare, can sometimes get a couple days a year for nighttime lows. I don't expect Scouts to operate well here, because, well, no vehicle operates well here. When it's this cold, we just expect people to not show up for work because stuff stops working. When outside, the condensation from your breath can freeze your eyelashes together. You develop moustache icicles. You wonder why you don't live somewhere nicer. It's probably what it's like to be in a severe heat wave in the southern states, where one simply can't function outside.

I will now create some dummy posts to edit later, each categorised based on some key concepts.
 
Last edited:
Placeholder: Harvester Engine Considerations

Q: Will the harvester engine have an external block heater connection or be sourced from the powertrain battery? If not, does the powertrain battery need to be itself plugged in for the block heater to function?

A:

Q: What SAE oil will the harvester engine support:

A:
 
Last edited:
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Placehoider: Mechanical systems and frame integrity

Q: Will there be heat tracing on the windshield fluid lines?

A:

Q: Will any of the electrical components (pumps, valves, etc.) with a fluid have a minimum temperature rating?

A:

Q: What is the overall resilience on the frame, body, wiring, coatings, etc. to compounds regularly used to deal with icy roads? Examples are salt compounds and sand/gravel mixtures.

A:

Q: Any details on the paint hardness and sealants to deal with the sandblasting effect from compounds mentioned in the previous question?

A:
 
Last edited:
Hello friends, long time lurker but now that my account got approved, I can post what's been most on my mind since placing my reservation. I searched for existing cold weather/northern climate data and there isn't much, so I figured I would start a thread to compile it for folks in a similar situation to me. In case you haven't already guessed, I am Canadian so I will be using the Celsius scale but I'll convert to Fahrenheit for ease of reading.

In the first post, let's define what cold is. As an Edmontonian, I get a chuckle out of truck review channels talking about cold weather testing and see them driving around 0 °C (32 °F) like it's a big deal. That's grilling weather in January for us here in Alberta. Here's some ranges for context without wind chill factors.

a) 0 °C (32 °F) to -10 °C (14 °F): I consider this to be a non-issue but for many others, this could constitute extreme lows in your area. Many areas across North America should frequently hit these temperatures so I'm confident the vehicles will be engineered to operate well enough here.

b) -10 °C (50 °F) to -20 °C (-4 °F): This is nuisance winter weather, and the bulk of our winter averages through the core winter months. It's where things can sometimes stop working correctly. ICE batteries should probably be put on a trickle charger if not started for extended periods of time. Engines should be warmed up prior to driving. Typically don't have issues starting without a block heater plugged in unless the battery is already weak. If you live in an area where you don't know what a block heater is, consider yourself blessed.

c) -20 °C (-4 °F) to -30 °C (-22 °F): Moderate cold snap daytime highs, common nighttime lows. Not uncommon to get days to weeks of this range. In 2019, we went through 26 days where the daytime high never cracked -20 °C (-4 °F), but that type of weather pattern is rare. Things continue to stop working. Winter rated washer fluid will crystalize on windshields if not pre-heated sufficiently. In my Subaru WRX, I notice my transmission fluid is stiff and my clutch is noticeably harder to depress until warmed up. Many ICE vehicles will not start if stored outside for multiple days without a plugged in block heater.

d) -30 °C (-22 °F) to -40 °C (-40 °F): Severe cold snap. We typically get one or two stretches of this in a year. Depending on how close your commute is, your car might not be warm when you get to work (people tape cardboard over their grills to help this). If your ICE isn't plugged in or have a huge cold crank amp battery, probably not starting. There's ice (not ICE, but water ice) on the INSIDE of windows and doorknobs in our homes. Vehicles break, period. You know not to roll down your window fully because it might freeze that way and not roll up. Depending on how used you are to it, it may hurt to breathe.

e) Colder than -40 °C (-40 °F): Extreme cold snap. Rare, can sometimes get a couple days a year for nighttime lows. I don't expect Scouts to operate well here, because, well, no vehicle operates well here. When it's this cold, we just expect people to not show up for work because stuff stops working. When outside, the condensation from your breath can freeze your eyelashes together. You develop moustache icicles. You wonder why you don't live somewhere nicer. It's probably what it's like to be in a severe heat wave in the southern states, where one simply can't function outside.

I will now create some dummy posts to edit later, each categorised based on some key concepts.
Appreciate your deep dive and willingness to engage us-we aren’t all evil, most of us can say that. I’ve complained this week as we are in the teens but I have family in Montana so I know what cold is-I choose to avoid it. Anxious to hear more from you. And anyone else living in deep freezers
 
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Hello friends, long time lurker but now that my account got approved, I can post what's been most on my mind since placing my reservation. I searched for existing cold weather/northern climate data and there isn't much, so I figured I would start a thread to compile it for folks in a similar situation to me. In case you haven't already guessed, I am Canadian so I will be using the Celsius scale but I'll convert to Fahrenheit for ease of reading.

In the first post, let's define what cold is. As an Edmontonian, I get a chuckle out of truck review channels talking about cold weather testing and see them driving around 0 °C (32 °F) like it's a big deal. That's grilling weather in January for us here in Alberta. Here's some ranges for context without wind chill factors.

a) 0 °C (32 °F) to -10 °C (14 °F): I consider this to be a non-issue but for many others, this could constitute extreme lows in your area. Many areas across North America should frequently hit these temperatures so I'm confident the vehicles will be engineered to operate well enough here.

b) -10 °C (50 °F) to -20 °C (-4 °F): This is nuisance winter weather, and the bulk of our winter averages through the core winter months. It's where things can sometimes stop working correctly. ICE batteries should probably be put on a trickle charger if not started for extended periods of time. Engines should be warmed up prior to driving. Typically don't have issues starting without a block heater plugged in unless the battery is already weak. If you live in an area where you don't know what a block heater is, consider yourself blessed.

c) -20 °C (-4 °F) to -30 °C (-22 °F): Moderate cold snap daytime highs, common nighttime lows. Not uncommon to get days to weeks of this range. In 2019, we went through 26 days where the daytime high never cracked -20 °C (-4 °F), but that type of weather pattern is rare. Things continue to stop working. Winter rated washer fluid will crystalize on windshields if not pre-heated sufficiently. In my Subaru WRX, I notice my transmission fluid is stiff and my clutch is noticeably harder to depress until warmed up. Many ICE vehicles will not start if stored outside for multiple days without a plugged in block heater.

d) -30 °C (-22 °F) to -40 °C (-40 °F): Severe cold snap. We typically get one or two stretches of this in a year. Depending on how close your commute is, your car might not be warm when you get to work (people tape cardboard over their grills to help this). If your ICE isn't plugged in or have a huge cold crank amp battery, probably not starting. There's ice (not ICE, but water ice) on the INSIDE of windows and doorknobs in our homes. Vehicles break, period. You know not to roll down your window fully because it might freeze that way and not roll up. Depending on how used you are to it, it may hurt to breathe.

e) Colder than -40 °C (-40 °F): Extreme cold snap. Rare, can sometimes get a couple days a year for nighttime lows. I don't expect Scouts to operate well here, because, well, no vehicle operates well here. When it's this cold, we just expect people to not show up for work because stuff stops working. When outside, the condensation from your breath can freeze your eyelashes together. You develop moustache icicles. You wonder why you don't live somewhere nicer. It's probably what it's like to be in a severe heat wave in the southern states, where one simply can't function outside.

I will now create some dummy posts to edit later, each categorised based on some key concepts.
Welcome to the community! Glad you decided to take the plunge and post!
 
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Placeholder: Supplementary

Q: What temperature ranges are the Scouts currently being stress tested at?

A:

Q: Are there any plans to test in severe or extreme cold scenarios?

A:
All great but I suspect it may be a while until you get solid answers but loving the in depth questions for a zone of the world I don’t worry about as sub zero is less than a few days a year and I have a garage so I tend to not worry so much
 
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I'm pragmatic and understand it won't necessarily make sense to engineer the vehicles for a fringe condition in a smaller market. Our summers are amazing here, and due to northern latitude with our 18 hours of daylight my solar system pumps out power like crazy. The shoulder seasons are fine too. I just need to understand how much of an impact it will have during the outlier weather patterns. Even a 50% drop in range (seems unlikely) during the coldest days wouldn't leave me stranded on the way to work with a BEV (Tesla is everywhere here BTW), but would change my charging habits especially if my panels are covered in fresh snow. So the BEV vs EREV factor comes into play, but so does the economics since a lot of our fuel savings will be eaten up by the USD/CAD exchange rate and the "Canadian factor" that makes stuff more expensive that it should after exchange and taxes (see Rivian).
 
Placeholder: Battery Performance Stats
Cold reduces available chemical reactivity. Different chemistries react differently to the cold.

The BEV will likely have an NMC lithium battery. The EREV may have an LFP battery.

NMC retains around 70%-90% of its potential energy when the battery is at -20 ⁰C.

LFP can lose up to 50% of its potential energy at -20 ⁰C.

ICEVs lose efficiency of about 20% (+- a fair amount due to various factors) down at 0 ºC and about 30% down at -20 ºC. This is especially an issue with shorter drives where the engine doesn’t have time to warm up.

Neither battery chemistry should be charged when below about 0 ⁰C.

To retain better range, you'll want to be sure the vehicle is plugged in to a level 2 charger and never gets cold soaked. The Battery Management System (BMS) will maintain the battery temperature above 0 ⁰C because charging when it's below 0 ⁰C can cause permanent damage to the cells. To maintain this temperature, the vehicle will sacrifice battery energy if it's not plugged in.

The Harvester will probably lose more range (as a %) in cold temperatures (below -20 ⁰C) if it's not plugged in because it will have issues with both the battery and with the lubricants in the engine. It will need to spend the little remaining LFP energy keeping the battery warm and keeping the engine lubricants warm. In such low temperatures, ICEVs can lose 30% or more range and fail to warm the cabin, as you noted. And for short trips in low temperatures, the ICEV range loss is even more extreme.

Assume the commonly understood 350 miles for the BEV and the 150 + 350 = 500 miles for the EREV. If you cannot plug in the vehicle for some reason, and the vehicle is cold soaked, you could see losses in the range of (approximately):

BEV:
70% of 350 = 245 miles remaining range

EREV:
50% of 150 = 75 miles
+
70% of 350 = 245 miles
= 320 miles remaining range (64% of the original range)

That's just the guestimated loss due to reduced chemistry and cold lubricants. There will also be energy expenses to heat the cabin (and the engine) if it's been cold soaked.

At even lower temperatures, the Harvester may lose more, faster because of its engine performance degradation coupled with the LFP reduced chemistry reaction rate.

If you can plug in to a L2 whenever you’re not using the vehicle, then it will maintain the battery temperature and the engine temperature. And the Harvester will maintain a better relative range. In fact, if Scout designs the Harvester with an extreme cold weather package, they could pump fluids of the proper temperature through the engine while it's plugged in to maintain the engine temperature at its ideal so it's ready to go whenever you are.
 
Cold reduces available chemical reactivity. Different chemistries react differently to the cold.

The BEV will likely have an NMC lithium battery. The EREV may have an LFP battery.

NMC retains around 70%-90% of its potential energy when the battery is at -20 ⁰C.

LFP can lose up to 50% of its potential energy at -20 ⁰C.

ICEVs lose efficiency of about 20% (+- a fair amount due to various factors) down at 0 ºC and about 30% down at -20 ºC. This is especially an issue with shorter drives where the engine doesn’t have time to warm up.

Neither battery chemistry should be charged when below about 0 ⁰C.

To retain better range, you'll want to be sure the vehicle is plugged in to a level 2 charger and never gets cold soaked. The Battery Management System (BMS) will maintain the battery temperature above 0 ⁰C because charging when it's below 0 ⁰C can cause permanent damage to the cells. To maintain this temperature, the vehicle will sacrifice battery energy if it's not plugged in.

The Harvester will probably lose more range (as a %) in cold temperatures (below -20 ⁰C) if it's not plugged in because it will have issues with both the battery and with the lubricants in the engine. It will need to spend the little remaining LFP energy keeping the battery warm and keeping the engine lubricants warm. In such low temperatures, ICEVs can lose 30% or more range and fail to warm the cabin, as you noted. And for short trips in low temperatures, the ICEV range loss is even more extreme.

Assume the commonly understood 350 miles for the BEV and the 150 + 350 = 500 miles for the EREV. If you cannot plug in the vehicle for some reason, and the vehicle is cold soaked, you could see losses in the range of (approximately):

BEV:
70% of 350 = 245 miles remaining range

EREV:
50% of 150 = 75 miles
+
70% of 350 = 245 miles
= 320 miles remaining range (64% of the original range)

That's just the guestimated loss due to reduced chemistry and cold lubricants. There will also be energy expenses to heat the cabin (and the engine) if it's been cold soaked.

At even lower temperatures, the Harvester may lose more, faster because of its engine performance degradation coupled with the LFP reduced chemistry reaction rate.

If you can plug in to a L2 whenever you’re not using the vehicle, then it will maintain the battery temperature and the engine temperature. And the Harvester will maintain a better relative range. In fact, if Scout designs the Harvester with an extreme cold weather package, they could pump fluids of the proper temperature through the engine while it's plugged in to maintain the engine temperature at its ideal so it's ready to go whenever you are.

Man it's like having your very own Scientist!

Seriously though - thank you for your contributions - I love the education...
 
Cold reduces available chemical reactivity. Different chemistries react differently to the cold.

The BEV will likely have an NMC lithium battery. The EREV may have an LFP battery.

NMC retains around 70%-90% of its potential energy when the battery is at -20 ⁰C.

LFP can lose up to 50% of its potential energy at -20 ⁰C.

ICEVs lose efficiency of about 20% (+- a fair amount due to various factors) down at 0 ºC and about 30% down at -20 ºC. This is especially an issue with shorter drives where the engine doesn’t have time to warm up.

Neither battery chemistry should be charged when below about 0 ⁰C.

To retain better range, you'll want to be sure the vehicle is plugged in to a level 2 charger and never gets cold soaked. The Battery Management System (BMS) will maintain the battery temperature above 0 ⁰C because charging when it's below 0 ⁰C can cause permanent damage to the cells. To maintain this temperature, the vehicle will sacrifice battery energy if it's not plugged in.

The Harvester will probably lose more range (as a %) in cold temperatures (below -20 ⁰C) if it's not plugged in because it will have issues with both the battery and with the lubricants in the engine. It will need to spend the little remaining LFP energy keeping the battery warm and keeping the engine lubricants warm. In such low temperatures, ICEVs can lose 30% or more range and fail to warm the cabin, as you noted. And for short trips in low temperatures, the ICEV range loss is even more extreme.

Assume the commonly understood 350 miles for the BEV and the 150 + 350 = 500 miles for the EREV. If you cannot plug in the vehicle for some reason, and the vehicle is cold soaked, you could see losses in the range of (approximately):

BEV:
70% of 350 = 245 miles remaining range

EREV:
50% of 150 = 75 miles
+
70% of 350 = 245 miles
= 320 miles remaining range (64% of the original range)

That's just the guestimated loss due to reduced chemistry and cold lubricants. There will also be energy expenses to heat the cabin (and the engine) if it's been cold soaked.

At even lower temperatures, the Harvester may lose more, faster because of its engine performance degradation coupled with the LFP reduced chemistry reaction rate.

If you can plug in to a L2 whenever you’re not using the vehicle, then it will maintain the battery temperature and the engine temperature. And the Harvester will maintain a better relative range. In fact, if Scout designs the Harvester with an extreme cold weather package, they could pump fluids of the proper temperature through the engine while it's plugged in to maintain the engine temperature at its ideal so it's ready to go whenever you are.
Great explanation. An we call you Sid the science kid? Anyone remember that kids show?
 
Placeholder: Harvester Engine Considerations

Q: Will the harvester engine have an external block heater connection or be sourced from the powertrain battery? If not, does the powertrain battery need to be itself plugged in for the block heater to function?

A:

As I mentioned in my earlier post, Scout has a fantastic opportunity to do something innovate with the Harvester.

One of the problems with ICEVs is that you cannot safely warm up the engine when the vehicle is in a space that’s connected to a living space. The dangers to human health are too high. Yes, I know some people do it anyway. It shouldn’t be done without adequate ventilation.

There will be a heat pump for maintaining the BEV’s proper battery, motor, and other electronics temperatures, especially under extreme conditions such as while towing or in very hot or very cold temperatures.

Scout could add another heat pump for just the Harvester engine that allows it to keep that engine cool…AND to warm up that engine in a similar way to warming the cabin on a BEV. You tap “precondition” on your app and the vehicle starts running the electric heat pump, which warms up the engine thermal control fluid and pumps that fluid through the engine block. This might be a package or option, but I suspect they’ll have the heat pump anyway given the location of the engine and lack of air flow to that location.

This wouldn’t be the stick-on engine block resistive heater or even the diesel aftermarket fluid heater/pump, but a fully-integrated, well-designed, integral part of the system with data from the relevant sensors.

I don’t know if Scout is planning this or not. If they do, it will be a massive improvement over ICEVs (and one could argue over BEVs) for very, very cold environments. I still wouldn’t get an EREV with this, but that’s because I don’t want the hassle of a gasoline engine.

Scout has a patent pending that could include using carbon dioxide as their refrigerant fluid for their heat pumps. CO2 is quite efficient at storing and transporting heat while also being relatively non-toxic. I suspect the engineers are already thinking well beyond my simplistic ideas.

All of the above is again mostly educated speculation. We don’t know exactly what Scout is planning for thermal management. There are some standards below which they can’t realistically go, but what they choose to do above and beyond those standards is still closely-held proprietary information.

Q: What SAE oil will the harvester engine support:

A:

They will have to support 0Wx, fully-synthetic, paraffin(wax)-free lubricants. The question is will the vehicle owners do their oil change twice a year so they’re not causing extra wear on the engine when the temperatures come back up?