Was thinking the same thing. I’d be trading my accord and I get 44 avg annually so I’d actually be going backwards 30% going to the Scout. Which-hey, my wife’s Pilot get about 21-22 so still double her SUV but for me it would be reverse.
Is there anything SM could offer to get you to switch from EREV to BEV?
- Thread starter cyure
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How does efficiency vary between the NMC BEV pack and the LFP EREV pack in a general sense? Similar overall?
Semi-related, but I haven't paid attention to this if it's been mentioned in the past- I assume the LFP discharge rate is lower than NMC, hence the slower 0-60 times for the EREV model?
LFP isn't going to dramatically change the range/efficiency for the same battery capacity in most normal driving. Temperature can have a different impact on the two different chemistries.
NMC will perform better for both range and acceleration in the very cold (-20 ⁰C or colder).
LFP generally has more cycles in its lifetime.
NMC and LFP can both charge at about the same rate (1C plus or minus). LFP is a little better at higher discharge rates.
BUT the cycle lifetime that battery manufacturers talk about is so high (30+years, 750k+ miles) that you could probably double the charge rate without meaningfully impacting the vehicle lifetime if the vehicle manufacturers build good active thermal management.
That alone is enough for me to keep with BEV, not even counting the extra maintenance on the Harvester. I'm probably going to be doing 20k miles a year when I get mine so that will add up to some decent cost savings.
Mpge is sort of a messy metric IMO, and actually is more confusing to most people that I talk with, than it is helping. I avoid it at all times. Its really trying to show how efficient electric vehicles are, but its also sort of comparing apples to oranges.
Here is what I mean:
We're used to burning a gallon of gas, and measuring how far we can go on that gallon (mpg). But electric cars don't have "gallons of gas" as their unit (the apples), instead they have KWh (the oranges). So they tried to mix the unit types to convey how efficient electric vehicles are, by converting them between each other, and getting a mathematically correct answer... that sort of makes no sense in the way its applied (since an EV doesn't burn gas).
Miles per gallon for a gas vehicle is the same idea as Miles per KWh for an electric vehicle:
What I like about these, is that both are easy to convert to "how much you pay", because you're billed by the "thing" (gallons, or KWh). So its literally just mpg x gas price per gallon, or miles per kwh x price per kwh.
A 300 mile trip for each is easy to calculate the price for:
Here is what I mean:
We're used to burning a gallon of gas, and measuring how far we can go on that gallon (mpg). But electric cars don't have "gallons of gas" as their unit (the apples), instead they have KWh (the oranges). So they tried to mix the unit types to convey how efficient electric vehicles are, by converting them between each other, and getting a mathematically correct answer... that sort of makes no sense in the way its applied (since an EV doesn't burn gas).
- On a EV's sticker at the dealership lot, you can see how many MPGe it gets (or on fueleconomy.gov).
- But, they DON"T tell you what SIZE "TANK" (battery) you have in the same way.
- My Ioniq 9 is rated for 98 MPGe.
- Which means its battery is only ~3.18 "Gallons equivalent" (107kwh useable / 33.7kwh per gallon).
- I think we'd all agree that listing it this way, doesn't make any sense.
- Or even funnier, think of the reverse situation. You pull up to a dealership and look at the spec sheet for a pickup truck and see it has a "876kwh equivalent" fuel tank size (26gallon).
- I think we'd all agree this isn't super helpful (although super hilarious), because a gas car doesn't use kwh of electricity to move.
- Which means its battery is only ~3.18 "Gallons equivalent" (107kwh useable / 33.7kwh per gallon).
Miles per gallon for a gas vehicle is the same idea as Miles per KWh for an electric vehicle:
What I like about these, is that both are easy to convert to "how much you pay", because you're billed by the "thing" (gallons, or KWh). So its literally just mpg x gas price per gallon, or miles per kwh x price per kwh.
A 300 mile trip for each is easy to calculate the price for:
- (300 miles / 20mpg) x (fuel price per gallon) == total price of the trip
- (300 miles / 2.5 miles per kwh) x (electricity price per kwh) == total price of the trip
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