Two and a half hours so far. 90% SOC remaining.First test of the battery backup. Lots of wind, rain, first power outage here in a few years. Seems to be working fine. We’re good for about 24 hours.
Two and a half hours so far. 90% SOC remaining.First test of the battery backup. Lots of wind, rain, first power outage here in a few years. Seems to be working fine. We’re good for about 24 hours.
Four hours and power is back on. SOC 86%, now recharging at 3.6kwFirst test of the battery backup. Lots of wind, rain, first power outage here in a few years. Seems to be working fine. We’re good for about 24 hours.
Glad the normal juice is flowing againFour hours and power is back on. SOC 86%, now recharging at 3.6kw
Looking great!I've been away from the community for a while working on replacing my deck. I feel like I've missed out on a lot and it could be some time before I can get back here to catch up. I hope all of you are doing well. I'll be back soon, I hope.
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That’s a beautiful deck you have! As @THil08 would say-you’ve got some big deck energy!I've been away from the community for a while working on replacing my deck. I feel like I've missed out on a lot and it could be some time before I can get back here to catch up. I hope all of you are doing well. I'll be back soon, I hope.
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What are you using for deck boards? Trex Composite, Wolf PVC, or another brand? Just don’t say wood.I've been away from the community for a while working on replacing my deck. I feel like I've missed out on a lot and it could be some time before I can get back here to catch up. I hope all of you are doing well. I'll be back soon, I hope.
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Yup, use joist butyl tape or sealant. And do a plug system with wolf or trex hidden clip system.I wish my deck was that low when I replaced a few rotten floor joists earlier this year. They really don't make pressure-treated wood like they used to, so I'm with @THil08 on this one. I'd also consider caps or tape to protect the tops of the floor joists.
The hidden clip system just takes a deck to a whole new level hiding all the fastenersYup, use joist butyl tape or sealant. And do a plug system with wolf or trex hidden clip system.
Pace yourself and great choices. If you happen to be getting it inspected (assuming you are NOT) but if you are, make sure cables are tight-they nitpick that from my experienceYep, you guys are right. First of all, the original deck was all pressure treated lumber which lasted 38 years (2x6's on 2x8 joists that were 24" on center). The original would not meet code today. Realizing the PT lumber is not what it used to be, my frame is 2x10 joists, 12" oc, each joist taped with butyl tape. The frame will be covered with EPDM roofing bladder which should keep everything below dry and the idea is the PT lumber will be protected from the weather. The decking will be 1" thick x 8" wide Timbertech Advanced PVC, so no worries about deck rot. I will be using the surface plugs to hide the screws. I hope to have vertical stainless steel cable railing. I realize a lot of what I am doing is overkill, but I don't intend to ever have to replace the deck again in my lifetime. Dealing with the heat and humidity lately is really bogging this old man down.
Yep, you guys are right. First of all, the original deck was all pressure treated lumber which lasted 38 years (2x6's on 2x8 joists that were 24" on center). The original would not meet code today. Realizing the PT lumber is not what it used to be, my frame is 2x10 joists, 12" oc, each joist taped with butyl tape. The frame will be covered with EPDM roofing bladder which should keep everything below dry and the idea is the PT lumber will be protected from the weather. The decking will be 1" thick x 8" wide Timbertech Advanced PVC, so no worries about deck rot. I will be using the surface plugs to hide the screws. I hope to have vertical stainless steel cable railing. I realize a lot of what I am doing is overkill, but I don't intend to ever have to replace the deck again in my lifetime. Dealing with the heat and humidity lately is really bogging this old man down.
Timbertech is good. And will out last all of us and our scouts with proper cleaning.Yep, you guys are right. First of all, the original deck was all pressure treated lumber which lasted 38 years (2x6's on 2x8 joists that were 24" on center). The original would not meet code today. Realizing the PT lumber is not what it used to be, my frame is 2x10 joists, 12" oc, each joist taped with butyl tape. The frame will be covered with EPDM roofing bladder which should keep everything below dry and the idea is the PT lumber will be protected from the weather. The decking will be 1" thick x 8" wide Timbertech Advanced PVC, so no worries about deck rot. I will be using the surface plugs to hide the screws. I hope to have vertical stainless steel cable railing. I realize a lot of what I am doing is overkill, but I don't intend to ever have to replace the deck again in my lifetime. Dealing with the heat and humidity lately is really bogging this old man down.
Wait, you had to take the bumper off to clean the headlights?Did some minor disassembly on the sedan over the weekend to clean the headlights up since the coating was starting to come off and get yellow/hazy up top. Poor girl needs a bath too.
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Bumper had to come off to remove the headlights. The original protective UV clearcoat was gone up top, so headlight restoration kits would've just been a very short-term Band-Aid. I re-coated them so they look like new again and should be good for another 100k.Wait, you had to take the bumper off to clean the headlights?
Send a pic when you can and what product did you use. Always curious on this issue. Only had one car that I kept long enough to deal with the hazing and traded it in before I needed to recoat them.Bumper had to come off to remove the headlights. The original protective UV clearcoat was gone up top, so headlight restoration kits would've just been a very short-term Band-Aid. I re-coated them so they look like new again and should be good for another 100k.
Wow. That’s like night and day!Quick recap of the process I used:
Wet-sanded the lights to bare plastic to get through the remaining coating using P180 grit, then progressively moved to P2000 grit to remove any scratches from earlier grits.
Cleaned up the lights, wiped them with a tack cloth and sprayed them using SprayMax 2k Headlight Clearcoat
Wet-sanded again to remove any imperfections from my lack of a spray booth, this time up to 5000 grit, then polished and coated with Cerakote.
I didn't take pictures of the process this time, but I did when restored my FJ's headlights.
After initial wet-sanding:
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After clearcoat:
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After wet-sanding the clearcoat to 5000-grit (sorry for the crazy reflections, my garage lights are in a big snowflake pattern):
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After polishing with Sonax and Meguiars, followed with Cerakote:
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