Off-topic stuff…

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Too far south to see that kind of green that high up. I could just make out the greens on the horizon. My camera could do a bit better.


AUR_1071_small.jpg
 
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Too far south to see that kind of green that high up. I could just make out the greens on the horizon. My camera could do a bit better.


View attachment 11322
My wife has been increasingly interested in the northern lights this last year or so. She keeps track of events and stuff like that. But surprisingly, today it was my daughter who noticed the pink sky, and asked my wife if it was the aurora.

We saw really strong pink and green right around sunset. Then a lul period, and an hour or so later was the deep red/pink.

IMG_2866.jpeg


Photography is one of my other hobbies, and we did have the camera out, so we may have some photos from that. I say “May” because my wife was doing that, but also some friends who’d been wanting to see the northern lights for like a year, and had camped out on our driveway for hours… only to see nothing at least twice before, came over. And it was a bit chaotic (6 kids under 10, up after bedtime, who hadn’t had dinner yet).

So, mayyybe? But I got a few ok photos with the phone, enough to remember it at least.

Also, I’m amazed how bright this one was. Usually it looks sort of like a wispy cloud that is hard to see the color of without a camera (at least with all the light pollution at our house). But this was super strong and obvious.

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And if you could see it down there, you know it had to be big.

Good stuff :).
 
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My wife has been increasingly interested in the northern lights this last year or so. She keeps track of events and stuff like that. But surprisingly, today it was my daughter who noticed the pink sky, and asked my wife if it was the aurora.

We saw really strong pink and green right around sunset. Then a lul period, and an hour or so later was the deep red/pink.

View attachment 11323

Photography is one of my other hobbies, and we did have the camera out, so we may have some photos from that. I say “May” because my wife was doing that, but also some friends who’d been wanting to see the northern lights for like a year, and had camped out on our driveway for hours… only to see nothing at least twice before, came over. And it was a bit chaotic (6 kids under 10, up after bedtime, who hadn’t had dinner yet).

So, mayyybe? But I got a few ok photos with the phone, enough to remember it at least.

Also, I’m amazed how bright this one was. Usually it looks sort of like a wispy cloud that is hard to see the color of without a camera (at least with all the light pollution at our house). But this was super strong and obvious.

View attachment 11325

View attachment 11324

And if you could see it down there, you know it had to be big.

Good stuff :).
We were overcast last night and I got out later than I probably should have so was bummed I didn’t get to see it. Nice pics from everyone though-looks by like an amazing show
 
Of course the Jeep started this morning. 🤬. It’s at the dealer and the code reader showed a communication fault, whatever that means. If they either find nothing or it’s not covered thing it’s a $220 diagnostic fee! If it’s a covered issue then it’s just my $100 deductible. 🤞
 
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Grrr. It’s starting for them just fine. Of course. But the high side AC line is leaking and that’s covered under my warranty. So because they found that I just have to pay $100 deductible for that repair rather than the $220 for the diagnostic. They get parts tomorrow so they are going to let it sit overnight and see if it starts in the morning. Come on don’t start in the morning!!
 
Grrr. It’s starting for them just fine. Of course. But the high side AC line is leaking and that’s covered under my warranty. So because they found that I just have to pay $100 deductible for that repair rather than the $220 for the diagnostic. They get parts tomorrow so they are going to let it sit overnight and see if it starts in the morning. Come on don’t start in the morning!!
What were the symptoms and did any codes get pulled?
 
What were the symptoms and did any codes get pulled?
Tries to start but won’t turn over. You can hear the engine going but it won’t turn over. Red lightning bolt warning light solid on the dash which stands for the electronic throttle control. Last week tried multiple times to start and wouldn’t. Last night tried to start it. Same warning light but it finally turned over. This morning a little delay but it started. Got to the dealer and had to move it for them and of course it started right up. She said the code was “communication delay” whatever that means. They said the battery and alternator are testing fine. And the battery is only a year or so old.
 
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Tries to start but won’t turn over. You can hear the engine going but it won’t turn over. Red lightning bolt warning light solid on the dash which stands for the electronic throttle control. Last week tried multiple times to start and wouldn’t. Last night tried to start it. Same warning light but it finally turned over. This morning a little delay but it started. Got to the dealer and had to move it for them and of course it started right up. She said the code was “communication delay” whatever that means. They said the battery and alternator are testing fine. And the battery is only a year or so old.
Ugh.

That’s going to be super difficult to diagnose.

My guess is that one of the main control modules has a short-to-ground problem and it causes the communication network between modules to fail. If you’re currently only getting one or a few obvious faults, that’s good news. The fastest way for a tech to diagnose it is to take the passenger side dash apart to find the hub for the communications, wait for the problem to present, then systematically disconnect modules from the hub to determine which module is causing the fault. It’s tedious in the best of times and much worse when there’s an intermittent fault. There are some ways around some of the tedium by measuring voltages on the conductors leading into the hub, but the short still has to be present in the moment or you won’t get anomalous voltages. I don’t know how Jeep pays its techs for this kind of diagnostic work, but it sounds like it’s not paid in a generous manner.

Unfortunately the code(s) are going to be too generic to direct the tech to the actual problem. This is because of the nature of the failure.

One potential solution is for the dealer to just replace the STAR connector, which is that little hub behind the dash, but if there’s an actual short elsewhere, this won’t solve the problem. However, if they have a spare in the shop, it’s worth an attempt to test. But they might charge you for the time.
 
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Ugh.

That’s going to be super difficult to diagnose.

My guess is that one of the main control modules has a short-to-ground problem and it causes the communication network between modules to fail. If you’re currently only getting one or a few obvious faults, that’s good news. The fastest way for a tech to diagnose it is to take the passenger side dash apart to find the hub for the communications, wait for the problem to present, then systematically disconnect modules from the hub to determine which module is causing the fault. It’s tedious in the best of times and much worse when there’s an intermittent fault. There are some ways around some of the tedium by measuring voltages on the conductors leading into the hub, but the short still has to be present in the moment or you won’t get anomalous voltages. I don’t know how Jeep pays its techs for this kind of diagnostic work, but it sounds like it’s not paid in a generous manner.

Unfortunately the code(s) are going to be too generic to direct the tech to the actual problem. This is because of the nature of the failure.

One potential solution is for the dealer to just replace the STAR connector, which is that little hub behind the dash, but if there’s an actual short elsewhere, this won’t solve the problem. However, if they have a spare in the shop, it’s worth an attempt to test. But they might charge you for the time.
Ugh. Thanks for the explanation. The only good news is a rodent didn’t eat anything! I’ll see what they say in the morning. At least they found that AC leak. If they hadn’t it would have been $220. Now it’s just the $100 deductible to fix that.

Now when I have my BEV I won’t have to deal with stuff like this right??
 
Ugh. Thanks for the explanation. The only good news is a rodent didn’t eat anything! I’ll see what they say in the morning. At least they found that AC leak. If they hadn’t it would have been $220. Now it’s just the $100 deductible to fix that.

Sorry, if there is a short-to-ground, it could definitely be caused by a rodent. Or blamed on a rodent. It could be that a wire somewhere has been rubbing on a piece of metal for however many years you’ve owned the vehicle and the paint and insulation have finally worn through enough that sometimes the copper of the wire touches the bare metal causing this short. Or a rodent gnawed through the insulation somewhere and caused a similar intermittent short. They won’t easily be able to find that without first learning where to look.

(if this is even the problem.)

Now when I have my BEV I won’t have to deal with stuff like this right??
Umm… This kind of issue is definitely a possibility with an EV.

The Scout will have zonal architecture, so it *should* be a lot easier to find where to look for such a problem. But the problem could still present.
 
Grrr. It’s starting for them just fine. Of course. But the high side AC line is leaking and that’s covered under my warranty. So because they found that I just have to pay $100 deductible for that repair rather than the $220 for the diagnostic. They get parts tomorrow so they are going to let it sit overnight and see if it starts in the morning. Come on don’t start in the morning!!
No whammies!
 
So the engine is cranking, but not firing? But its only intermittent?

And they say its a "communications delay"?

To be honest, it could be any number of things. But I'd hope they at least check the basics? Do you have air, spark, and fuel? Fuel pumps can cause intermittent crank but not fire situations, and are pretty easy to check.

Assuming they've done the basics, I'd be curious of the Throttle Position Sensor, or Crankshaft Position sensor is out. And those should be easy to diagnose (usually you check resistance across them).

My last crank but not start, was caused by the Throttle Body, which had an integrated throttle position sensor (2005 Mazda 6 Wagon, with the Ford Duratec 3.0L V6). And of course it was a dealer only item, and cost like $900 :/. At least it was an easy to access part right on the top of the engine (only took like 10 minutes to install once I diagnosed it, special ordered it and waited for it to arrive).
 
Sorry, if there is a short-to-ground, it could definitely be caused by a rodent. Or blamed on a rodent. It could be that a wire somewhere has been rubbing on a piece of metal for however many years you’ve owned the vehicle and the paint and insulation have finally worn through enough that sometimes the copper of the wire touches the bare metal causing this short. Or a rodent gnawed through the insulation somewhere and caused a similar intermittent short. They won’t easily be able to find that without first learning where to look.

(if this is even the problem.)


Umm… This kind of issue is definitely a possibility with an EV.

The Scout will have zonal architecture, so it *should* be a lot easier to find where to look for such a problem. But the problem could still present.
Well boo all around.
 
So the engine is cranking, but not firing? But its only intermittent?

And they say its a "communications delay"?

To be honest, it could be any number of things. But I'd hope they at least check the basics? Do you have air, spark, and fuel? Fuel pumps can cause intermittent crank but not fire situations, and are pretty easy to check.

Assuming they've done the basics, I'd be curious of the Throttle Position Sensor, or Crankshaft Position sensor is out. And those should be easy to diagnose (usually you check resistance across them).

My last crank but not start, was caused by the Throttle Body, which had an integrated throttle position sensor (2005 Mazda 6 Wagon, with the Ford Duratec 3.0L V6). And of course it was a dealer only item, and cost like $900 :/. At least it was an easy to access part right on the top of the engine (only took like 10 minutes to install once I diagnosed it, special ordered it and waited for it to arrive).
I’ll ask tomorrow what they have tested. They said battery is fine and alternator is fine.

I did a 100,000 mile tuneup 11,000 miles ago so the spark plugs are newer.

I asked about the electronic throttle control because that’s apparently what the red lightning bolt signifies. I will ask again tomorrow.

I hate stuff like this. Awhile ago it was running really rough and it took them a few times to figure out it was the oxygen sensor. That’s why I did the tuneup because we thought the spark plugs were bad. Nope oxygen sensor. And then they didn’t hook up a vacuum line so I went through a half a tank of gas in like 75 miles. Took that back and they figured that out real quick.

My only saving grace is as long as it’s not a rodent or something like that my MOPAR lifetime warranty covers it.

So I get a new upper AC line because that’s definitely leaking but I wouldn’t suspect that would cause this issue.
 
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Sadly, at over 100k miles, you're definitely into the "these sensors might start going" territory. Especially because the oxygen sensor already went.

An AC line shouldn't do anything to prevent an engine from firing. And sounds like your lifetime warranty should come in clutch here.

Rodent damage is totally possible, but sadly there are lots of other ways to have electrical gremlins creep in there (beyond the "sensors going out" situation). A ground connection, that has corroded a lot can cause some similar issues too. But I don't know if you'd see "cranking over, but not firing" in that situation. Seems more likely it just wouldn't turn the engine over.

I'm also skeptical of fuel pump too. Sometimes those have just a small part of the winding that fails, and thats why sometimes it cranks and cranks and never fires, and other times it fires right up.