The Garage (What did you work on today?)

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Brake disc thickness variation seems the most likely cause. Pull the brake rotors, get them turned, get rid of the rust on the wheel hubs. This is key--if you leave that rust, the brakes won't seat properly and you'll be right back with the same problem.

Hmm, this was my worry. I hate parts cannoning things but there is no easy way to measure either the struts (while mounted) or the rotor (without more tools). It may be worth the $100 to just do a front brake job that I know will be proper. I've never taken my car in for brakes, always done them myself.

Thanks for the input.
 
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Hmm, this was my worry. I hate parts cannoning things but there is no easy way to measure either the struts (while mounted) or the rotor (without more tools). It may be worth the $100 to just do a front brake job that I know will be proper. I've never taken my car in for brakes, always done them myself.

Thanks for the input.
I'm not a fan of it either. Your local parts store may be able to measure the thickness of the discs for free. If they're within spec, that will rule it needing the turn.

I'll bet there's still enough rust on the hubs to need to be cleaned either way.
 
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Man it is so hard to diagnose NVH over the internet.

When you were prying around, did you check for play at the rack for the inner and outer tie rod ends?

Did you check the rack itself? Something their bushings go out and cause all kinds of slop and racket.

Have you checked the wheel bearings?

Are the brake pads missing their return springs?

Rotors being warped would still be noticeable at lower speeds and give you a pulsating sensation at the brake pedal.

You could always drive next to them and see if there are any tires hopping if you are leaning towards struts.
 
Man it is so hard to diagnose NVH over the internet.

When you were prying around, did you check for play at the rack for the inner and outer tie rod ends?

Did you check the rack itself? Something their bushings go out and cause all kinds of slop and racket.

Have you checked the wheel bearings?

Are the brake pads missing their return springs?

Rotors being warped would still be noticeable at lower speeds and give you a pulsating sensation at the brake pedal.

You could always drive next to them and see if there are any tires hopping if you are leaning towards struts.
All very good points, and I checked as many of these as I was able. Wheel bearings had no play and aren't noisy, rod ends are tight and not split or weepy, haven't pulled the brakes yet (just did a visual) but they looked fine. Wiggled the rack as much as I could but it's up there, seemed tight though.

We are going to replace the struts, rotors, pads and the end links since it's less than $300. It'll be a good learning experience for him and it gets me out of the house for a bit. It will give me something to look forward to, the week has already started out stressful, get to do an emergency server reboot tonight, YaY.
 
All very good points, and I checked as many of these as I was able. Wheel bearings had no play and aren't noisy, rod ends are tight and not split or weepy, haven't pulled the brakes yet (just did a visual) but they looked fine. Wiggled the rack as much as I could but it's up there, seemed tight though.

We are going to replace the struts, rotors, pads and the end links since it's less than $300. It'll be a good learning experience for him and it gets me out of the house for a bit. It will give me something to look forward to, the week has already started out stressful, get to do an emergency server reboot tonight, YaY.
You are a good friend, Wrath.

Also be sure to replace the strut bearings (if it has them). That may also be the culprit, but you typically see play in those and hear clunks when they go out. But its best practice to replace them if you are replacing struts.
 
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