Solar-Ready package (especially for the Traveler)

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SpaceEVDriver

Scout Community Veteran
Oct 26, 2024
398
1,171
Arizona
One of the great things about taking an EV camping is the silence. You can run all the things-electric from the vehicle without having to listen to a generator.

But, one of the challenges of camping with an EV is that some trips are more difficult when you’re going out boondocking far from “civilization.” When I used to drive a gas vehicle, I’d put a 5-gallon can in the bed so we could get up to 30 miles (60 round trip) farther from everyone.

With a decent solar system and auxiliary battery, the same can be accomplished with an EV. When camping and on road trips, I carry a 5.1 kWh portable power station that can provide up to 30A 120V power to recharge an EV. That 5.1 kWh will give me about 15 miles of low-speed, off-road extra range. And with some solar panels, I can refill that power station every day. That’s independent of the vehicle I might be driving. If I can fit the power station and solar panels into or onto the vehicle, I can recharge the vehicle slowly but surely.

However, there are some challenges:

Some people might be reluctant to leave their expensive power station outside when they go for a hike for fear of sticky fingers. In a truck with a tonneau cover (my setup), this isn’t as much of an issue. I can just disconnect the charging plug and close everything up—the solar wires can easily fit in the many spaces around a tonneau cover or tailgate.

In an SUV, this is more of a problem. Transferring power from the solar panels to the power station when driving or the power station is otherwise inside the vehicle would require some kind of intrusion from outside to inside. Similarly, if you want to charge the vehicle from the power station, the options are: leave the vehicle open enough to allow the cable to get outside or set the power station outside.

An upgrade option that I would certainly appreciate would be to have an XT-90 (or similar) low-voltage, relatively low-amperage plug near the charging port on the outside of the vehicle (or somewhere else that makes sense) and a mate to that plug on the inside of the vehicle so solar power can be transferred to the vehicle while the vehicle is closed up (driving or parked, doesn’t matter). Another part of the package would be an interconnected charge port on the inside of the vehicle so that the auxiliary battery can power a Level 1 EVSE that is charging the vehicle also while the vehicle is all closed up—the interconnection would be necessary so plugging in at a charging station doesn’t short out the system. Whatever the design is there, I’m sure Scout engineers could figure it out.

Note that solar power does not extend single-leg range in the way many people misunderstand requests for solar. Solar on a vehicle can’t provide direct charging of a 400 or 800 volt battery. But solar can charge an auxiliary battery that can then provide 120V power to an L1 charger. Some can even provide 240V power. That extra power is best thought of as an extra gas can that can be refilled while on the road and boondocking.

None of this is requesting the auxiliary battery or solar be included with the vehicle, just an option to purchase a small kit that’s installed at the factory to enable this kind of extra charging. The aftermarket can provide the additional options such as the auxiliary battery, a solar tonneau covers, solar racks, solar rooftop tents, etc. But having a well-designed and well-built intrusion into the interior of the vehicle would help make the Scout that much more attractive to overlanders and others looking to get farther off the beaten path.
 
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One of the great things about taking an EV camping is the silence. You can run all the things-electric from the vehicle without having to listen to a generator.

But, one of the challenges of camping with an EV is that some trips are more difficult when you’re going out boondocking far from “civilization.” When I used to drive a gas vehicle, I’d put a 5-gallon can in the bed so we could get up to 30 miles (60 round trip) farther from everyone.

With a decent solar system and auxiliary battery, the same can be accomplished with an EV. When camping and on road trips, I carry a 5.1 kWh portable power station that can provide up to 30A 120V power to recharge an EV. That 5.1 kWh will give me about 15 miles of low-speed, off-road extra range. And with some solar panels, I can refill that power station every day. That’s independent of the vehicle I might be driving. If I can fit the power station and solar panels into or onto the vehicle, I can recharge the vehicle slowly but surely.

However, there are some challenges:

Some people might be reluctant to leave their expensive power station outside when they go for a hike for fear of sticky fingers. In a truck with a tonneau cover (my setup), this isn’t as much of an issue. I can just disconnect the charging plug and close everything up—the solar wires can easily fit in the many spaces around a tonneau cover or tailgate.

In an SUV, this is more of a problem. Transferring power from the solar panels to the power station when driving or the power station is otherwise inside the vehicle would require some kind of intrusion from outside to inside. Similarly, if you want to charge the vehicle from the power station, the options are: leave the vehicle open enough to allow the cable to get outside or set the power station outside.

An upgrade option that I would certainly appreciate would be to have an XT-90 (or similar) low-voltage, relatively low-amperage plug near the charging port on the outside of the vehicle (or somewhere else that makes sense) and a mate to that plug on the inside of the vehicle so solar power can be transferred to the vehicle while the vehicle is closed up (driving or parked, doesn’t matter). Another part of the package would be an interconnected charge port on the inside of the vehicle so that the auxiliary battery can power a Level 1 EVSE that is charging the vehicle also while the vehicle is all closed up—the interconnection would be necessary so plugging in at a charging station doesn’t short out the system. Whatever the design is there, I’m sure Scout engineers could figure it out.

Note that solar power does not extend single-leg range in the way many people misunderstand requests for solar. Solar on a vehicle can’t provide direct charging of a 400 or 800 volt battery. But solar can charge an auxiliary battery that can then provide 120V power to an L1 charger. Some can even provide 240V power. That extra power is best thought of as an extra gas can that can be refilled while on the road and boondocking.

None of this is requesting the auxiliary battery or solar be included with the vehicle, just an option to purchase a small kit that’s installed at the factory to enable this kind of extra charging. The aftermarket can provide the additional options such as the auxiliary battery, a solar tonneau covers, solar racks, solar rooftop tents, etc. But having a well-designed and well-built intrusion into the interior of the vehicle would help make the Scout that much more attractive to overlanders and others looking to get farther off the beaten path.
Well written and well requested. I no longer camp or off road but this is the perfect approach to the needs of you who do. Can I add a caveat and ask that SM consider designing this option as an OEM after market item as well. Can the car be designed in a way to accept this “module” 3 years after I buy. What if I suddenly get the itch to start camping again or traveling with my bike somewhere that this might later be of use to a Scout owner. If there would be a way, this would be great. Even if it’s in the bin under the rear floor and comes out the bottom like an exterior covered gfci outlet on a house. Let water infiltration unless you plan to ford the 36” of water on a regular basis than not such a good idea
 
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Well written and well requested. I no longer camp or off road but this is the perfect approach to the needs of you who do. Can I add a caveat and ask that SM consider designing this option as an ORM after market item as well. Can the car be designed in a way to accept this “module” 3 years after I buy. What if I suddenly get the itch to start camping again or traveling with my bike somewhere that this might later be of use to a Scout owner. If there would be a way, this would be great. Even if it’s in the bin under the rear floor and comes out the bottom like an exterior covered gfci outlet on a house. Let water infiltration unless you plan to ford the 36” of water on a regular basis than not such a good idea
Yeah, I would imagine if designed well, it could be something that’s not required to be optioned at purchase of the vehicle but could be installed after delivery if desired.
 
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While there may be times an integrated solar system might be useful - I fear most of the time it lacks cost benefit. If you look at available roof space - it is doubtful that a system larger than 1200 watts would fit. Most of the US probably averages less than 5hr of effective solar generation. So given that - we would be looking at about 6kw per day. At 2.5 miles per kwh - that is about 15 miles of solar range daily.

Where it might be more useful is battery maintenance. Most aux loads are fairly small compared to a BEV battery capacity - but it might be nice to have your car charge itself in extended parking during a trip - rather than have it slowly discharge itself due to parasitic loads. Have read horror stories about Tesla's bricking themselves when left on their own for a couple months (probably after being parked with a poorly charged battery).
 
While there may be times an integrated solar system might be useful - I fear most of the time it lacks cost benefit. If you look at available roof space - it is doubtful that a system larger than 1200 watts would fit. Most of the US probably averages less than 5hr of effective solar generation. So given that - we would be looking at about 6kw per day. At 2.5 miles per kwh - that is about 15 miles of solar range daily.

Where it might be more useful is battery maintenance. Most aux loads are fairly small compared to a BEV battery capacity - but it might be nice to have your car charge itself in extended parking during a trip - rather than have it slowly discharge itself due to parasitic loads. Have read horror stories about Tesla's bricking themselves when left on their own for a couple months (probably after being parked with a poorly charged battery).
I think you missed the point of my post.
 
<snip>

An upgrade option that I would certainly appreciate would be to have an XT-90 (or similar) low-voltage, relatively low-amperage plug near the charging port on the outside of the vehicle (or somewhere else that makes sense) and a mate to that plug on the inside of the vehicle so solar power can be transferred to the vehicle while the vehicle is closed up (driving or parked, doesn’t matter). Another part of the package would be an interconnected charge port on the inside of the vehicle so that the auxiliary battery can power a Level 1 EVSE that is charging the vehicle also while the vehicle is all closed up—the interconnection would be necessary so plugging in at a charging station doesn’t short out the system. Whatever the design is there, I’m sure Scout engineers could figure it out.

Note that solar power does not extend single-leg range in the way many people misunderstand requests for solar. Solar on a vehicle can’t provide direct charging of a 400 or 800 volt battery. But solar can charge an auxiliary battery that can then provide 120V power to an L1 charger. Some can even provide 240V power. That extra power is best thought of as an extra gas can that can be refilled while on the road and boondocking.

None of this is requesting the auxiliary battery or solar be included with the vehicle, just an option to purchase a small kit that’s installed at the factory to enable this kind of extra charging. The aftermarket can provide the additional options such as the auxiliary battery, a solar tonneau covers, solar racks, solar rooftop tents, etc. But having a well-designed and well-built intrusion into the interior of the vehicle would help make the Scout that much more attractive to overlanders and others looking to get farther off the beaten path.

Instead of a plug, how about a built in weather tight cable hatch? A cable hatch is a small door that RVs use to allow power cords (and other stuff) to run between the inside and outside of the vehicle when it is parked. With a cable hatch you are not bound to a specific outlet type. So you can run the solar panel cords into the vehicle to plug into the portable power station through the hatch. At the same time you can run a power cord from the portable power station outside to power an Level 1 EVSE, camp equipment, or anything else you might want.

A cable hatch would be useful on both the Traveler and the Terra. In the Traveler it could be positioned to give access to the rear storage area since this is the most likely place to have equipment you want access too. In the Terra it would mainly be useful if it had a lockable cover or cap (or camper?).
 
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Instead of a plug, how about a built in weather tight cable hatch? A cable hatch is a small door that RVs use to allow power cords (and other stuff) to run between the inside and outside of the vehicle when it is parked. With a cable hatch you are not bound to a specific outlet type. So you can run the solar panel cords into the vehicle to plug into the portable power station through the hatch. At the same time you can run a power cord from the portable power station outside to power an Level 1 EVSE, camp equipment, or anything else you might want.

A cable hatch would be useful on both the Traveler and the Terra. In the Traveler it could be positioned to give access to the rear storage area since this is the most likely place to have equipment you want access too. In the Terra it would mainly be useful if it had a lockable cover or cap (or camper?).
Something as simple as a cable hatch, if it were large enough to pass a NACS head through, would work, but it would be inherently less weather resistant.
 
Instead of a plug, how about a built in weather tight cable hatch? A cable hatch is a small door that RVs use to allow power cords (and other stuff) to run between the inside and outside of the vehicle when it is parked. With a cable hatch you are not bound to a specific outlet type. So you can run the solar panel cords into the vehicle to plug into the portable power station through the hatch. At the same time you can run a power cord from the portable power station outside to power an Level 1 EVSE, camp equipment, or anything else you might want.

A cable hatch would be useful on both the Traveler and the Terra. In the Traveler it could be positioned to give access to the rear storage area since this is the most likely place to have equipment you want access too. In the Terra it would mainly be useful if it had a lockable cover or cap (or camper?).
Good in theory but would fear seal failure over time. RVs aren’t running roads anywhere close to the amount of time a daily driver does. Gotta think the water/moisture wear and tear will be detrimental but if they can design it properly or similar to a gas cap and cover with self drainage
 
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As I think about this, the issue I have with the cable hatch is that if you want to have the solar plugged in while driving down the road it would expose the interior to whatever exterior environmental conditions you might encounter while on the way to your camping site. I most often camp off forest service or fire roads that are dusty. An open hatch with wires snaking through would allow that dust into the cabin. Dust, prescribed burn smoke, water, etc., could be allowed ingress if that hatch is open.
 
As I think about this, the issue I have with the cable hatch is that if you want to have the solar plugged in while driving down the road it would expose the interior to whatever exterior environmental conditions you might encounter while on the way to your camping site. I most often camp off forest service or fire roads that are dusty. An open hatch with wires snaking through would allow that dust into the cabin. Dust, prescribed burn smoke, water, etc., could be allowed ingress if that hatch is open.
Sounds like someone needs to design a waterproof in-use bidirectional charging port that mounts near the standard trailer plug that can be controlled as needed.
 
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Anybody remember this Ford/Ghia concept? Always loved this car. Always liked the exterior cable/wire line. That would solve the solar wires around the Scout 😀
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GoSun has a roof bar system that runs 1200 mWh and uses a standard EV plug, has a lithium battery inside to buffer the power output. Im already considering one for my Toyota and it would be a great fit here too. Its a 4'x4' hard case with an extendable 8' out the front and 8' out the back made of soft panels that you dont need to prop up.
 
GoSun has a roof bar system that runs 1200 mWh and uses a standard EV plug, has a lithium battery inside to buffer the power output. Im already considering one for my Toyota and it would be a great fit here too. Its a 4'x4' hard case with an extendable 8' out the front and 8' out the back made of soft panels that you dont need to prop up.
Welcome to the community!
 
Oh wow ok so this is more than just a forum, its like a mini social media site. This place is awesome haha I appreciate the info
It’s awesome. A Scout focused mini social media site is a good way to think about it now that you mention it. And yes the manufacturer interacts with us. There’s the color poll and a feature poll. They let us know where the concepts will be. They will be at a festival in Denver end of May beginning of June and the IHS show in Springfield Ohio June 13th to the 15th. Jamie will reply to posts and threads and the search function is also really helpful as some members have been here from the very beginning so there’s lots of info.

And typically every Friday we get new pictures! Have fun!!

 
GoSun has a roof bar system that runs 1200 mWh and uses a standard EV plug, has a lithium battery inside to buffer the power output. Im already considering one for my Toyota and it would be a great fit here too. Its a 4'x4' hard case with an extendable 8' out the front and 8' out the back made of soft panels that you dont need to prop up.
Welcome aboard!
 
As I think about this, the issue I have with the cable hatch is that if you want to have the solar plugged in while driving down the road it would expose the interior to whatever exterior environmental conditions you might encounter while on the way to your camping site. I most often camp off forest service or fire roads that are dusty. An open hatch with wires snaking through would allow that dust into the cabin. Dust, prescribed burn smoke, water, etc., could be allowed ingress if that hatch is open.

There is no port (electrical plug or cable hatch) that you could use while driving. The wiring from the solar panels wouldn't be able to take the strain. If you want to be able to use solar panels while driving, the solar installation would have to be semi-permanent. The wiring would have to be run through conduit and use a dedicated weather-tight hole (likely on the roof).

The ask by the OP was for two solutions:
  1. A way to connect solar panels outside the vehicle to a power station inside the vehicle.
  2. A way to connect a power station inside the vehicle to charge the vehicle. They talked about an interconnect to prevent power from both external and internal at the same time.
If you can solve the weather sealing problem while driving (which is easy, use a twist on cap under the hatch like gas inlets do), a cable hatch can provide both features without any extra electrical parts. The EVSA can be plugged into the standard charging port with the cable run inside to the power station, so no interconnect will be needed. A hatch is cheaper and more flexible than a plug of some kind.

A hatch provides other benefits as well. You can leave the power station inside the vehicle and run an extension cord through the hatch outside to provide power without using the vehicle's V2L. Another posting asked for the ability to pump warm air from an external propane heater into the vehicle while camping, easy enough with a hatch and a properly sized hose. I would bet there are other example uses that would be easy with a hatch but difficult or even impossible with an electric plug of some sort.
 
There is no port (electrical plug or cable hatch) that you could use while driving. The wiring from the solar panels wouldn't be able to take the strain. If you want to be able to use solar panels while driving, the solar installation would have to be semi-permanent. The wiring would have to be run through conduit and use a dedicated weather-tight hole (likely on the roof).


I’ve retrofitted non-permanent solar onto travel trailers by setting up a roof rack-style panel mount so the panels can easily be removed by loosening a couple of fasteners. Then I run 8AWG wire from the roof-mounted solar to a plug panel. There’s minimal strain on the wires when done correctly. UV-resistant, low-voltage wiring doesn’t need to be in conduit. And low-residue cloth gaffer tape can be used to secure the wires when necessary.

I’m far less willing to cut into a Scout than a travel trailer.