actual ranges before orders?
- Thread starter Mousehunter
- Start date
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Nothing has changed.
Promises = "PRODUCTION" (not prototypes and product development), it's still early days and they are still building a factory.
Not sure why there is any confusion. Seems unreasonable to to think any differently at this stage in the game - I'll blame all the clickbait coming from unverified sources being pushed by AI agents to the echochamber of the internet.
My recollection/understanding of Hyundai/kia software is that when you set regen to 0, it also disables regen on the brake pedal, ie I when youāre in that mode you only get friction brakes. That never made sense to me, am I confused about that? I like coasting when I take my foot off the gas but still want regen when I hit the brakes.
100% agree. And as someone else noted-if only one or two sources are saying this Iām not buying it anyway. Clickbait for sure. Until SM announces it Iām not worried. And again-things appear to be running quite well based on monthly updates and visuals of the plant progress. We are all anxious but so far SM has been more transparent than nearly any other car company so Iām just keeping an even keel and will assume if things change Iāll hear it from SM on this forum
I own a 2024 Hyundai Ioniq 5. When regen is set to 0, the friction breaks engage for the first few times but then the car reverts to using regen breaking. This is actually mentioned in the service manual as a regular maintenance activity to keep the friction breaks from freezing up due to lack of use. I have done this a few times and can confirm that the regen engages at level 0 when pressing on the breaks (after the first few times) from my own use.
Makes sense to me as the driver of a manual transmission. I typically downshift to slow down before using regular brakes. I do NOT do that in icy/snowy conditions though as it upsets everything and you can easily lose control/traction. In those cases, I want to use the brakes like as gently as possible.
Beyond that, I've read that in some cases more range is gained by coasting for longer distances than using regen, but can't confirm if that plays out in the real world.
My ioniq 9 still does regen in "regen mode zero".
But there is a separate way to disable regen to exercise the disk brakes.
Regen definitely still works on the brake pedal when Regen is set to 0. My dash shows me energy going into the battery when slowing down on 0 with the brakes.
In the real world the difference is academic. The regen process is quite efficient, not perfect, but quite good.
Where do you all drive that you can coast for "long distances?" I literally live in flyover country and there is not a lot of opportunity to coast...
I agree with @Cranky Canuck, keep the regen cranked up and use cruise control. IMO this gives maximum efficiency with the least effort and doesn't annoy your fellow drivers. I dislike those people that roar downhill only to slow to a crawl as they go uphill....
I donāt work for any EV company, but my guess here is they will have an EPA estimated range using the same sort of unicorn conditions everyone else does, and that is what they will publish.
Depending on how you drive you will get less or more, which isnāt surprising, if the two of us buy an identical VW Golf (gas) and one of us floors it at every chance, and the other very gently accelerates... we are going to go a vastly different number of miles. Likewise in the same EV if one of us floors it at every chance, and the other very gently accelerates, and one of us tries to go as fast as they can and the other decides to keep it at about 30MPH one of us is going to get under the āunicorn EPA numberā and the other is going to get maybe around twice the EPA range.
That is before you account for things like strapping a trailer on the back.
So if they have a 350 mile published range depending on what you do you might get between 200 and 600 miles without doing anything crazy (600 would be from driving a route that happens to be mostly 30MPH roads). If you do crazy things (big travel trailer and go 100MPH while towing) you can expect a lot less then the rated range from anything.
Because whatever the ārangeā number says is a huge deal to people buying their first EV, and not exactly a small deal to people buying a second EV any company selling an EV has a strong incentive to make that number as big as they can. So basically if the EPA unicorn test shows 380 miles that is what is going to get published. Even if the real world is a big shy of that.
On the other hand hand the navigation system in an EV has a strong incentive to make accurate real world guesses. If it guesses ātoo highā you end up stranded with no power on your way to a charger, but not able to reach it. If it guesses ātoo lowā you end up stopping too frequently and maybe charging too long. Making even short trips take too long.
So the fastest way to get an idea of what real world range is likely to be is to try a bunch of routes in the vehicleās navigation system. It wonāt be as accurate as actually doing it for real and driving it and seeing where it ends up. Itāll be the best you are likely to get short of actually being able to drive one on a few long trips though.
Not sure how you feel, but in my experience, Rivian does a great job with their range estimates based on your driving, SOC and wheel and tire choices. That should bode well for Scout, and I would add that under "normal" driving conditions with a mix of HWY and City driving, the estimates should be fairly accurate AND that the vehicle's SW will communicate with the BMS and update estimates based on usage and current SOC (as well as inefficient driving or sub-optimal temp or wind conditions). This should not be anything to worry about (other than Scout hitting it's projected 350 estimate with the proper battery sizing to achieve that based on the truck).
Right, I get your point on accuracy, but on short trips you're not usually charging at all, so short trips shouldn't take too long. Assuming your not starting with a low SOC!
That is a bit of a sore spot, and why my Rivian is
Aside from that one small thing where I can legit say I might have died due to a software defect... The Rivanās Navigation estimates have been within 1% to 2% even for fairly long trips. The EPA estimate is not all that accurate given that I can make the actual range go a lot farther by going slower (down to around 20MPH), or make the range drop like a stone by putting a travel trailer on the back, and in both cases the EPA range stays the same. The Nav estimate when I change behaviors tends to ācatch upā.
Well granted I was super sloppy with āshort tripsā. Lets say the NEK to Champlain & back, soemther where you might be driving far enough to need a charge, or you might not. In the summer Iām ānope, can go buy peaches, get some grilled cheese, and come home, charge in the garageā, but that needs a good estimate. It is enough miles on not interstates that if you just looked at the number of miles you need to stop and charge. If you decide to do that you are likely taking a detour into Burlington to hit an actual fas fast charger, or you are going to stop at something doing maybe 60kW in Jonsonville to pickup a bunch of kWh you donāt actually need to have to get home!
Still Iām talking a near 300 mile trip, and saying that is āshortā when without defining āshortā it is reasonable to assume thatāshortā is ālike 100 milesā or ālike 50 milesā or something!
